The summer sun of January 2009 sent shafts of sunlight through the shallow entrance to Fish Rock cave silhouetting the graceful forms of more than 30 grey nurse sharks patrolling back and forth in the white shell grit gutter outside and occasionally entering the cave to inspect our group of Dive 2000 Club Members hugging the cave wall inside. Also patrolling back and forth were giant black stingrays and schools of fish. As each shark passed, some within touching distance we could observe the tiny black pupils surrounded by a white eyeball with nuances of gold. Equally curious of us each shark inspected each diver and perceiving no threat they resumed their constant patrol.
Some of the sharks had large stainless steel hooks embedded in their jaw, evidence of recent escapes of accidental hook-ups by sport fisherman and a reminder of the hazards these animals face in their migrations up and down our coast. Some of the sharks had a lot of algae growth on their teeth, an indication that they had not eaten recently, more disturbing was the quantity of algae growing on the teeth of those with hooks. We could only hope that these sharks would overcome the temporary disability until the hook rusted away, at least these sharks looked healthy enough at the moment!
Our group moved from the cave entrance into the shark gutter where we were surrounded but we had nothing to fear as despite the row upon row of needle sharp teeth passing overhead these sharks are strictly fish eaters. I have over 40 years experience diving with grey nurse sharks and I have never heard of any diver ever being harmed by one. The same can't be said of wobbegongs but that is usually because some divers have been stupid enough to molest them!
Our group exited the shark gutter and swam off into the shallows to play with a giant loggerhead turtle and his friends that are residents here. I swam the short distance to the drop-off at the end of the gutter as I was curious to see what else might be approaching from the ocean depths surrounding Fish Rock. Peering into the deep I was astounded at the sight before me, a river of grey nurse sharks was approaching and they swarmed past to join the pack patrolling the gutter, the cave entrance and around the depths of this small rocky island. It was clear evidence of the annual migration of Grey Nurse Sharks returning to our waters for the summer and our group was right in the middle of it. It was a sight I will never forget and an experience that was spectacular, exciting and inspirational for our entire group.
Our dives during our annual trip to South West Rocks provided many more fabulous encounters with marine life and the thrill of exploring through the Fish Rock Cave. Inside the cave the walls are a kaleidoscope of colour, a hundred or more crayfish peer from cracks and crevasses. Wobbegong sharks, stingrays and turtles also shelter in there. It's an easy dive and swim through with the help of our dive guides from South West Rocks.
Another memorable moment occurred during a dive with our group in deeper water down below the reef were the rocks have formed a natural amphitheatre. We settled to the sand and just enjoyed the thrill of dozens of large two meter grey nurse sharks schooling around us or simply hovering almost motionless nearby. I was concentrating on composing pictures when I felt what I presumed was my dive buddy Yahn's fin pressing against my cheek. Turning to give him my typical 'stop that and piss off look' I was stunned to find the fin was the tail end of a two meter female grey nurse who had drifted back into me in the slight current. My demeanour instantly changed to 'oh, go right ahead darling and I will very carefully move out of your way!
Over our three days at South west Rocks we all enjoyed fantastic encounters, the camaraderie of friends among our dive club group and the excellent dive support provided by our associates at South West Rocks dive Centre. Scott is leading a group back there this January 2010 to welcome back the sharks this summer, greet the turtles, stingrays, Eagle Rays, wobbegongs and tropical fish schools. For an adventure you might never forget, join him!
Cherie and I certainly will be there as we are still on a roll after our fantastic encounters with Leopard Sharks and Mantas at Stradbroke Island last month. It seems we can't get enough safe sharks!
Text & Photos by Kevin Deacon
More photos at http://www.dive2000.com/blog/Photos/TravelPhotos/SouthWestRocks
